This morning, Gigi and I went looking for the weekly market in the town of Massa Lubrense before heading to Positano for a day trip. We knew it was in Piazza Francesca, but did not know exactly where the square was. Turns out it was not in the middle of town, as most weekly markets are. Twice we were given directions, but could not find it after an hour of searching. Our landlady offered to drive us to the market, only 5 minutes away, and then we could walk home. As is turned out, the market was by a church that is up on a hill on a dead end road. Only locals would be able to find this market. We were looking for food, and were surprised to see that 90% of the vendors were selling clothes and household items from vans with amazing canopies that unfolded from the van’s rooftop. It was like a mobile mall of cheap shoes, jeans, winter jackets and such. On the way home we walked down small paths through lemon orchards. The Sorrento area is famous for limoncello, and the local lemons have a protected agricultural designation.
We packed up a picnic lunch and headed for Positano, 45 minutes away on the Amalfi coast. At one point we were on the ridge top of the peninsula and could look to one side and see the Amalfi coast, on the other side was the Bay of Naples. Clouds were brushing the limestone mountaintops above everything. Down the windy road to Positano. Traffic was nil, so the driving was easy, but slow, as this road is famous for being narrow and windy. We parked at the very top of the town and walked down the ‘1,000 steps’ straight to the beach. There were maybe 10 other people on the whole beach. The sun was out, and even though it was only about 13C it felt warm enough for me take my shirt off and soak up the low winter sun. The boys stripped down to their underwear and jumped into the Mediterranean. It was cold, but exhilarating, they jumped and shouted and laughed and very soon came out to sun on the pebbly beach. By 3 PM the sun disappeared behind clouds, and without it the beach became suddenly cold. We packed up and walked into the center of town and found it completely shuttered up, so we immediately found the town bus stop and took the bus back to the top of the town and got in our car and headed back to Massa Lubrense.